Cuicuilco (Dec. 4)

Today: Cuicuilco archeological zone, in the south of Mexico City. Cuicuilco was a city and ceremonial center first inhabited a little over 3000 years ago. Presently, it's a lovely patch of wildness in the center of a ring of freeways and skyscrapers. The settlement was partly covered with lava in a volcanic eruption around 400 BC/CE, which led to it being abandoned but also helped preserve its several structures. The pyramid at its center, made of large, rough volcanic stones, is about 75 feet high, and maybe that wide again across its flat, grassy top. A sign at the site speculates that this place, fairly uniquely, was built so that many people could gather and participate in the sacred ceremonies on the summit.  Which idea I like, a lot. Inclusivity, room for all at the top.

I met only one other person while walking the narrow paths among giant cactus, bee balm growing 6 to12 feet tall, mesquite trees and others that looked like gigantic jade plants. There were psychedelic succulents with flowers that somehow combined salmon and turquoise.  In place of carbon monoxide, the predominant smell in this city, was a sweet live green aroma that rivalled the Bosque in Albuquerque. It was a needed respite after a few days in the City's overload.

Approaching the pyramid, the quiet disappeared as I caught up with a large group of elementary kids on a noisy field trip. They were coming down as I was going up. As we met, a boy called out "Welcome!" A bit further on, a man who looked around 60 smiled and asked me - in English - "Where are you from?" When I told him, he turned to the group of kids he was accompanying, who looked like 3rd graders, and announced (still in English), "Everybody, say ´Welcome to Mexico!´" "WELCOME TO MEXICO!" they all called out in a perfect chorus. 

Oh my other country, los Estados Unidos, how I wish you could take an example from this one on how to be truly human. You´ve got a difficult contest with this country, so far, when it comes to stealing my heart.