Veracruz (Jan. 28)

Veracruz, Veracruz is as close as I've been to Havana, or how I imagine Havana. This city would be the perfect setting for a 40's film noir, or maybe a modern crime flic requiring the word "gritty" in every review. Palm trees, potholed streets, moldy 4-story buildings peeling off their paint in salt air (pink, white, and lime green), street lamps, rusty wrought-iron balconies. Central plaza tiled in white marble and surrounded by the portales of bars and cafes with little tables and strolling musicians. Ocean view blocked mid-town by sky-scraping cranes and massive cargo ships from all over the planet. Malecon further south with historic statues and battered rowboats tied to the piers. And in the heart of the city, one of the kindest welcomes I've found yet on this trip. 

I met Jack and Emily (and their cute 3-year-old son) on my last trip here, and they've offered me an open door since then. Which came as a particular relief after the last few days in Mazatepec, where all mi hermana's friends and neighbors have decided to talk _about_ me instead of to me, using her as an interpreter. Yeah. When we're all speaking Spanish. "Where is your friend from?" "How long is she staying here?" "Is she cold?" No, my Spanish isn't perfect. Sometimes I miss a beat, or have to ask for a repeat of a question. And I remembered belatedly what I've heard all along, that Veracruzanos are known for talking way faster than everybody else, but it's more than that. Some have changed their mind about my linguistic abilities AFTER a few friendly exchanges. Others have refused to try at all, sometimes saying no right in front of me even as mi hermana assures them we speak the same language. This is so dumbfounding to me that yes, I've at times remained without words to contradict them (or the interest in trying). 

When I related one of these conversations to the friends here in Veracruz, they both responded immediately with, "Wow, that's rude! What a lack of respect!" Me being always the too-kind and too-diplomatic, I replied "Well, I know something about small towns, and people who just aren't into trying anything new..." "No" they replied. "That's just rude." Well thank you, friends. I can use the affirmation. Especially when it comes with wonderfully open, animated talk about the world, travel, economics, family stories, as well as world-class cooking by two people who went to culinary school. This is the kind of hospitality that gives a weary traveller the hope to keep going.